Mary Katrantzou Explores New Techniques with Innovative Intarsia Coats and Shifts for Contemporary Dolls

We bring you the runway highlights and an exclusive designer interview from the Mary Katrantzou presentation at London Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2015. See the VIP guests arrive and watch the models being transformed backstage in hair and makeup where the look was exaggerated 60s doll-like under eye dots and fake lashes with nude lips and base.

The collection features an array of coats, dresses and gowns in paneled sections and blocks of color and texture. Wide-belted skirts and frothy swishing hems were in abundance alongside innovative shift dresses and printed duffle coats with glistening lined hoods. The mixture of fabrics, textures and techniques really made the garnets stand out with a contemporary hi-tech feeling.

Designer Mary Katrantzou spoke to Fashion One about the collection mixing both a bourgeois quality and modern restraint. Talking in depth about the garment making process she describes a technique using car roofing fabric moulded onto dummies to create a perfect seamless shape. This simplicity was offset with the various embellishments and techniques across the flowing feminine silhouettes and minimal shift dresses as well as times when the two forces were balanced.

Katrantzou also spoke about working with intarsia, avoiding a the typical furs used by many other brands and creating something really beautiful and unique. She elaborated that the clothes ranged from linear and modern to heavy and enhanced but the key was the “flow” of the collection, taking you from A to B.